As we approach the Ras el-Jdir disappears the lagoon of El Bibane, while a few shoots of Alfa fight against the sand and sea salt from saline lake nearby kingdom of COTUSAL, which exploit the resources. Here, this is not the desert, but a huge moonscape-like no-man’s land. We cross a few camels, goats which merge with the earth and yellowish Libyan many cars in such a hurry to be back in Djerba, Sfax, Tunis they roll at breakneck speeds. The carcasses of abandoned cars on the sides suggest that accidents are frequent..

Guerdane between Ben and Ras el-Jdir over nearly 10 km, shacks juxtaposed offer mobile phone recharge, pottery, gasoline, or act as exchange offices. On the road, frantically waving men huge wads of cash to attract motorists. One ad even during the day: 100 TD against 89 Libyan dinars for the purchase and 110 for sale. Until 2009, these operations were tolerated well as contravening the law on foreign exchange in Tunisia. Since then, both countries signed an agreement for the convertibility of their currencies. These stalls are changing out of hiding. And they are so numerous. He mumbles that there are many way and it’s convenient for the Libyans. One of them, just change a large sum, said he regularly goes to Djerba for medical monitoring, while his companion believed to tour the bars of the island.

The road becomes a long straight windswept and shrouded with dust. From time to time, forcing a checkpoint to slow down. Ras el-Jdir portal is planted in the middle of nowhere, watched by police and customs. Rare cars surmounted incredible bales of merchandise returned from Tripoli, while only six trucks loaded with cement barrier waiting to cross the Tunisian side. It is far from 18,000 people, 7,000 cars and 400 trucks each day that passed by Ras el-Jdir, according to official figures.

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